These go on in a matter of minutes. You'll need a saw to size the spars, and a drill if you decide to attach the front to a rack such as the Nitto M12.
The hammered finish hides dents and scratches, and has looked great for years. I even tour with these and have shipped the bike multiple times with the fenders still attached.
Just about everywhere I go, people compliment the bike when it's sporting these, but that's not why I got them. They're a good deal, only about $10 more than plastic fenders, about the same weight yet more rigid.
On the downside, when compared to plastic fenders, rocks tend to be louder when they get caught between the wheel and fender, but they are generally silent when set up correctly.
I also have a set of VO stainless fenders on another bike. I like and dislike mostly the same things about both fenders.
These fenders, like their stainless-steel counterparts, are well-made, attractive and reasonably-priced. The bike with the hammered fenders also has Velo Orange "Porteur" bars on it; the fenders and bars are nice "constructeur" touches.
Another thing I like about the VO fenders is that they're longer than most, so you can get good coverage without using a flap. (Still, you can install a flap if you want that "retro" look.)
My complaints about both sets of fenders are the same: a lack of mounting instructions and the complicatedness of the hardware. However, once you install either set of fenders, they'll have a clean and classy look. And these aluminum fenders are easier to cut or bend, if necessary, than the steel ones are. Plus, they're lighter.
These fenders are absolutely beautiful and fit great on my skinny 700s. As others have said, they were pretty difficult to install and definitely required a clear head and a quiet work environment to keep from throwing them or damaging the fenders in a fit of rage. If you have these qualities and access to this type of work environment, I would definitely recommend these!
I had to look online for instructions. The first bike took a while with a buddy, the 2nd set went on easy alone in about an hour. I had to make a hold bigger in an L-shaped mounting piece for the front, but it was easy to do. I also used a hacksaw to shorten the arms to size. I recommend fixing the bike to stand upright on the wheels without skewers in. This will allow you to tighten everything down exactly how it will fit, and then mark where to cut the arms. (They pass right where the quick-release would be. They look great on the bike, fit tight and are all around the awesome.
Summed up: Don't be afraid of the work, it's worth it. The best fenders I see out on the road.
Yes, I would recomend this to a friend.
Likes: Clean, Solid
Works for: Touring, Commuting
Dislikes: Mounting Hardware
November 02, 2011
reviewed by: A Guest
These fenders looked good in the picture but after receiving them and attempting to attach them to my Surly Long haul Trucker, which is set up with braze ons for fenders, I came to the conclusion they are not going on without a trip to the hardware store and some drilling and minor fabrication.
I have a small shop and could make them work but I am not going to do that. I don't return things very often and these are sitting under my bed.
The front fender would have gone on if I had bought a longer bolt but the rear fender will only attach at the extreme ends so without drilling and fabricating a bracket they were going to rattle like crazy and would definitely have chipped the paint at the insides of the seat stays.
Unless all this is OK with you I don't think you shold buy them but they do look good..... That's about $65 bucks down the drain.